Freestanding lace is digitized to stitch only on water-soluble stabilizer—no fabric under it. After stitching, you dissolve the stabilizer and the lace must support itself, so the hooping must be firm, flat, and non-stretchy throughout.

• Water-soluble mesh (fibrous): e.g., OESD AquaMesh / Vilene; strong, fabric-like, ideal for FSL. Often used in two layers for strength.

• Water-soluble film (clear, plastic-like): e.g., Sulky Ultra Solvy; very strong film, popular for dense FSL.

• Adhesive water-soluble mesh: e.g., AquaMesh Plus (sticky-back); great for “float” techniques or awkward shapes.

• Temporary spray adhesive (WSS-safe), low-tack tape, basting box (machine function), sharp new needle (75/11 or as your design specifies), 40 wt rayon/poly or 30 wt cotton, bobbin thread to match top for tidy backs.

1. Use stabilizer type/quantity the digitizer recommends. If unspecified, start with two layers of fibrous mesh or one heavy film (Ultra Solvy); for very dense designs, double up (mesh+film or two meshes).

2. Smallest hoop that fits → less flex and fewer registration errors.

3. Taut like a drum without stretching: snugen the screw, but don’t distort the WSS—keep the sheet flat and even.

4. Fresh needle to avoid snags that can perforate WSS and weaken joins.

5. Slow down for dense stitch areas; density + speed causes breaks and WSS fatigue.

Method A — Two-layer fibrous mesh (standard FSL workhorse)

When: Most lace, including moderately dense designs.

Stabilizer: 2 sheets AquaMesh/Vilene.

Steps:

1. Cut two pieces at least 2″ larger than your inner hoop. Stack with grains crossed (if noticeable).

2. Light mist of temporary adhesive between the layers (optional) to bond them.

3. Hoop both layers as one, tighten evenly; surface must be flat, not bowed.

4. Stitch. For multi-color lace, change bobbin to match top when changing colors.

Method B — Film + mesh “sandwich” (for dense or large motifs)

When: Dense lace or designs with long runs where you need extra rigidity.

Stabilizer: 1 Ultra Solvy film + 1 AquaMesh layered.

Steps:

1. Cut one piece BadgeMaster/Ultra Solvy film and one piece AquaMesh, each ≥2″ larger than the hoop.

2. Lightly bond layers together (temporary spray) so they behave as one sheet.

3. Hoop both, film toward needle (top) or bottom—consistency matters more than direction; aim for flat, even tension.

4. Stitch as usual. This combo adds stiffness and reduces “saw-toothing” on edges.

Method C — Adhesive mesh “float” (tricky shapes or extra anti-shift)

When: Very intricate outlines, small pieces that tend to shift, or hoops where clamping is awkward.

Stabilizer: AquaMesh Plus (sticky-back).

Steps:

1. Hoop AquaMesh Plus paper side up; score paper ONLY, peel to expose adhesive.

2. Lay a second layer of non-adhesive mesh or film on the sticky surface (“float” it) and smooth gently—no stretch.

3. Run a basting box to lock layers, then stitch. (Basting helps prevent lift in dense sections.)

Method D — Triple-layer reinforcement (very dense lace, big repeats)

When: Extremely dense designs, metallic thread, or large multi-panel assemblies.

Stabilizer: Any of:

• 2× fibrous mesh + 1× film, or

• 1× adhesive mesh + 1× mesh, plus painter’s tape around hoop edges to reduce creep.

Notes: Prioritize even tension and reduced speed. If your digitizer suggests a specific stack, follow it.

1. Prep machine & design

o Confirm design is digitized for FSL (explicitly stated); regular designs can fall apart after rinsing.

o Insert a new 75/11 (or size per instructions).

2. Cut stabilizer (oversize +2″) and stack per method.

3. Hoop firmly & evenly (smallest hoop), check there’s no slack or ripples.

4. Optional: baste box around the design to lock layers to the hoop field. (Especially helpful on adhesive methods.)

5. Threading

o Use 40 wt rayon/poly (or 30 wt cotton) as recommended; match bobbin to top for two-sided lace.

6. Stitching

o Reduce speed for dense passages, watch for “flagging” (WSS lifting with needle). If you see it, pause and rebaste.

7. Unhoop & trim excess WSS close to edges.

8. Rinse/Dissolve

o Follow the stabilizer’s package directions: brief soak for Vilene/AquaMesh; Ultra Solvy dissolves fully but may need more agitation.

o For crisper lace, leave a whisper of WSS by using cool water and shorter soak; for softer hand, rinse more thoroughly.

9. Dry & set

o Lay flat on a towel, block to shape, air-dry, then a light press if appropriate.

• Edge “saw-teeth” / gaps → Add a second layer (mesh+mesh or mesh+film); baste box; ensure hooping is tighter.

• Bridging threads snap → New needle; slow down; confirm design is true FSL; add layer or switch to Ultra Solvy for more rigidity.

• Registration creeps on long runs → Use smaller hoop, tape hoop edges, or switch to adhesive mesh to anchor; baste perimeter.

• Holes from perforation → Needle may be dull; reduce speed; avoid over-tightening to the point of stretching WSS.

• Cloudy/filmy residue after rinse → Rinse longer/warmer per brand directions, then air-dry flat; gently repeat soak if needed.

• Most FSL → Two fibrous meshes hooped together.

• Very dense lace / large motifs → Film + mesh or two meshes + baste box.

• Fiddly shapes prone to shifting → Adhesive mesh (AquaMesh Plus) and baste.

• Designer specified a type/amount → Follow that exactly (designs are digitized with a stabilizer in mind).

After stitching, trim, then soak/rinse per the brand’s instructions; air-dry and press if recommended. Many tutorials show excellent results with Vilene/AquaMesh and Ultra Solvy for FSL, including multi-color lace workflows and finishing.

After stitching, trim, then soak/rinse per the brand’s instructions; air-dry and press if recommended. Many tutorials show excellent results with Vilene/AquaMesh and Ultra Solvy for FSL, including multi-color lace workflows and finishing.

FSL uses stabilizers that dissolve completely; there are two broad categories:

Follow the digitizer’s stabilizer recommendation whenever provided. If none is given, two layers of fabric type (mesh) or one heavy film are good starting points.

1. Cut oversized stabilizer. For each hooping, cut pieces at least 2 in (5 cm) larger than your inner hoop. For the combination method, cut one mesh and one film.

2. Layer properly.

o For two mesh layers, stack them with the grain running in different directions (if visible); a light spray of temporary adhesive helps them act as one sheet.

o For mesh + film, place the heavier film on top (closest to the needle) to resist perforations .

o If using an adhesive stabilizer, hoop the sticky sheet paper side up, score the paper to expose the adhesive and “float” a second layer of mesh on top.

3. Hoop snugly. Place the stabilizer stack in the smallest hoop that fits your design (smaller hoops reduce stretch) . Tighten the screw evenly until the stabilizer is drum tight . Wrap muslin strips around the inner hoop if the stabilizer slips .

4. Test tension. FSL designs are dense; do a quick test stitch on scrap stabilizer to check tension. Adjust so needle and bobbin threads meet in the middle.

• Use sharp needles. Size 75/11 or 80/12 embroidery needles are recommended ; change after each project to avoid perforating the stabilizer.

• Thread choice. Use 40 weight polyester or rayon embroidery thread ; for a heavier look (e.g., bold lace motifs), 30 weight cotton may be used. Use the same thread in the bobbin and needle so both sides look identical.

• Digitized designs only. Make sure the pattern is specifically digitized for freestanding lace (dense underlay to hold stitches).

• Speed and stabilization. Slow the machine to medium speed; each stitch must form cleanly because no fabric catches the thread. Trim jump threads during color changes.

1. Hoop and attach. Place the hooped stabilizer on the machine. There is no need to center a fabric because FSL is stitched on stabilizer alone.

2. Embroider. Start the machine; change threads and bobbins together for multi color designs . If you notice the stabilizer flagging (lifting with the needle), stop and re hoop or baste around the design.

3. Remove and trim. When stitching is complete, remove the hoop and gently pop out the lace. Trim away excess stabilizer around the design.

1. Dissolve stabilizer. Submerge the piece in warm water until the stabilizer dissolves ; mesh stabilizers (Vilene/AquaMesh) dissolve quickly ; film stabilizers (Ultra Solvy, BadgeMaster) may need more time.

o For stiffer lace, do not rinse all the stabilizer ; leave a slight residue or dip the lace in a solution made from dissolving stabilizer scraps.

o For softer lace, rinse thoroughly in warm water .

2. Dry flat. Lay the lace face down on a towel to dry, smoothing it to shape; this prevents curling . For 3 D projects, let pieces dry over a mold (e.g., bowl) to shape them.

3. Press if necessary. Once dry, press through a pressing cloth to flatten . To re stiffen, use spray starch or dissolved stabilizer solution and press again.

4. Finish assembly. Join multiple lace pieces using buttonettes, jump rings, or stitching as directed by the design instructions. Make sure the right side of each lace piece faces outward.

• Do one design per hooping. Water soluble stabilizer stretches; stitching multiple designs in one hoop may cause misalignment .

• Maintain even tension. Wrap hoop screw with rubber bands or muslin strips to prevent slippage .

• Slow down the machine. Dense stitches need time to form .

• Use leftover stabilizer. Keep stabilizer scraps; dissolving them in water makes a great stiffening solution for future lace projects .

By selecting the correct stabilizer, hooping it tautly and following these careful steps, you can embroider dense freestanding lace that holds its shape beautifully after the wash.